Tag Archives: Feline Health

You CAN manage arthritis in your pet! (By Dr. Jenna Koenigstein)

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Nikki’s story

This lovely lady is Nikki a patient at Ocean County Veterinary Hospital (OCVH) . She is a very happy 11 month old lab who loves to eat and swim but is otherwise a bit lazy.  One day a few months ago, she was outside playing with her “sister” and suddenly started limping badly on her right front leg.  X-rays of her legs showed that she had an inherited condition called Elbow Dysplasia in both of her elbows, and sadly was already developing arthritis.  Although surgery removed the congenital defects in her elbows and helped her tremendously, it could not reverse or prevent the early arthritis which will continue to get worse with time.

Stories like this are common, but not what most people think of when they think of arthritis.  The sad truth is that many young dogs are at risk for developing arthritis, whether from developmental conditions like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia or injuries like torn ligaments (ACLs) in the stifles (knees).  For pets that are in pain and having difficulty getting around, medications like NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatories, for example, Rimadyl) are needed to make them feel better.  Fortunately, for long-term management of arthritis, there are many other things that can be done to improve the overall comfort and slow the progression of arthritis in both young and old dogs, particularly when the arthritis is diagnosed in its early stages.  Unfortunately, many times it is not addressed until the arthritis has reached the point where the pet is consistently limping.  The true goal of arthritis management should be focused on preventing pain and slowing progression of the process.  Here are some ways to achieve this goal.

Weight management

The single most important thing you can do as a pet parent with an animal with arthritis is keep their weight under control.

Extra pounds will not only make it even more difficult for dogs to get up and down but can also speed up the progression of arthritis.  Decreasing caloric intake, whether by decreasing the quantity fed or by switching to a diet food (either lower calorie or prescription) and increasing exercise will help you to see results at home.  Often the amount that your pet needs to eat to meet their metabolic needs is far less than you think they should be eating.  The feeding recommendations on the bags of food are just generalizations and do not take into account individual variation in metabolism, and may be far too much for your individual pet, especially if they are not very active. What is your pet’s body condition? See the chart below. Ask your veterinarian for special diets that can help your pet lose weight more easily.

Adequan

Adequan in a unique injectable medication the helps prevent the cartilage in joints from wearing away.  The goal of this treatment is to keep the cartilage healthy and intact so that the bones in the joint cannot rub on each other.  It is initially given twice a week for 4 weeks and then as needed.  Owners can be taught to give the injections at home (very easy!).  Most owners have noticed a drastic improvement in their pet’s mobility after starting Adequan and many have been able to decrease or altogether stop giving oral pain medications.

Oral Supplements

There are numerous oral supplements on the market that can help to improve mobility.  Glucosamine and chondroitin are the most popular supplements on the pharmacy shelves and many owners have noted improvement in their pet’s comfort while on these.  There are many companies making these supplements, which can be purchased both at veterinary hospitals and over the counter (OTC).  Caution must be exercised with OTC products as they frequently do not have the levels of glucosamine and chondroitin that are claimed on the label, and some contain potentially harmful components such as salicylic acid (metabolite of aspirin) which increases the risk of stomach ulceration. We recommend using Cosequin or Dasuquin.

Another supplement recommended in animals with arthritis is Duralactin.  This contains Microlactin, a dried milk protein from hyper-immunized cows that works at a cellular level to reduce inflammation and prevent subsequent tissue damage.   It can be used in conjunction with a glucosamine and chondroitin supplement such as Dasuquin to reduce inflammation and improve overall mobility.

Rehab/exercise

Proper exercise is essential for the arthritic pet, as it is crucial to maintain as much muscle mass as possible to support the abnormal joint.  Massage and gentle flexion/extension exercises may also help.   In later stages of arthritis, facilities specializing in canine rehabilitation and physical therapy can develop an exercise plan for your canine companion.

 Nikki walking on the underwater treadmill.

 

Physical Analgesia

Laser therapy utilizes the benefits of photobiomodulation to promote tissue healing and reduce inflammation.  We have had a lot of success at OCVH with the K-Laser not only in managing arthritis, but also with infected wounds, soft tissue injuries, and post-operative healing.

Several other methods of promoting pain relief have been used in management of arthritis in pets, including acupuncture, transcutaneous electrical stimulation (TENS), shock wave therapy, and many others.  Ask your veterinarian if you are interested in pursuing these alternative methods of reducing inflammation and pain associated with arthritis.

When pets with evidence of early arthritis are managed with the long-term goal of slowing down progression of the disease rather than simply immediate pain relief, we have the chance of giving them a better quality of life for much longer.  As for Nikki, since her surgery she has been on a diet (3.6 pounds down so far!), and has  started both Adequan and K-Laser therapy in addition to a glucosamine and chondroitin supplement (Dasuquin).  Despite being in the early stages of arthritis, taking these steps now should significantly slow down the progression of the disease and keep her happy and comfortable for a long time to come.

 

 

Protect What Counts! (By Dr. Kara Ruthberg)

 

Pet insurance?! Who needs that?” You do! Keep reading to learn how pet insurance can benefit you and your pets.

What is pet insurance? Every year more than 1 in 3 pets falls ill or is injured. No one wants to have to choose between their pet’s health and their bank account.  Pet insurance helps you pay for your pet’s care in the event of a costly accident or illness, which can quickly run into thousands of dollars.

 

What does pet insurance cover? There are lots of pet insurance plans available but they vary a great deal. There are differences in what they cover, what they exclude, what they cost, their level of customer service, and how they pay claims. While budget is always a factor, don’t just pick a plan because it’s the cheapest. You get what you pay for!  Our veterinarians have reviewed the information from the most common pet insurance companies and confidently recommend TruPanion Pet (www.trupanion.com) as one of the best insurance carriers for your pets. Pet insurance plans can cover:

  • Treatment for accidents, illnesses and diseases
  • Treatment for allergies
  • Emergency kenneling
  • Cancer and chemotherapy
  • Theft
  • Surgery, hospitalization and nursing care
  • Laboratory and diagnostic tests including X-rays and MRI scans
  • Medications

      Some pet insurance plans also cover:

  • Genetic/hereditary conditions
  • Alternative therapies such as acupuncture, hydrotherapy, holistic and homeopathic medicine
  • Chronic and recurring conditions that last more than one policy period, such as allergies, diabetes and hyperthyroidism
  • Behavioral problems
  • Prescription diet food

What doesn’t pet insurance cover? Pet insurance plans usually will not pay for:

  • Pre-existing conditions – These are conditions that your pet had, was diagnosed with, or showed signs of before enrolling or during the waiting period. This is one of the most important things to consider and why you should insure your pet as soon as possible when they are healthy
  • Cosmetic, elective or preventative procedures such as de-worming, tail docking, ear cropping, and declawing (except where medically necessary)
  • Veterinary costs related to pregnancy, breeding or whelping
  • Orthodontic or endodontic procedures such as root canals or crowns

 

So, how much does it cost? The cost of pet insurance varies based on a few factors – the pet’s species, breed, age, gender and location. On average you can expect to pay around $30 per month for dogs and $20 per month for cats. Adding on wellness coverage (such as vaccines and dentistry) typically costs a little more. Pet Insurance companies also may offer discounts for things like:

  • Enrolling multiple pets
  • Paying annually for your policy instead of monthly
  • Being full-time in the military
  • Enrolling a service pet (like a guide dog for the sight impaired)

The most important thing to remember is that pet insurance is something you can’t get when you need it the most. If your pet is sick or injured it is too late to purchase a new insurance policy to help you with expenses. Planning ahead and doing your homework on pet insurance now are essential to getting the best, most comprehensive coverage for your pet before something happens. Please ask one of our doctors or staff members for more information.

OCVH Veterinarian Dr. Pearlman discusses the risks of LEPTOSPIROSIS

 

Ocean County Veterinary Hospital veterinarians want to know… Do your dogs go outside? If they do they may be at risk for Leptospirosis. This disease is caused by one of the many strains of the Leptospira bacteria. Wild animals that walk through your yard, day or night, can leave the bacteria behind wherever they urinate. Remember, there is not a yard or park in New Jersey that does not have a squirrel or mouse run through it! Dogs most often become infected with Leptospirosis through contact with the bacteria that live and multiply in contaminated puddles or moist areas. Any dog that goes outside is at risk. Even when I walk my own dogs on a leash they sometimes reach down before I can stop them from investigating a puddle. We used to think that only dogs that swam in lakes or rivers, such as hunting dogs, were at risk. The fact is that many dogs diagnosed with Leptospirosis are medium to small dogs that are mostly indoors. People are at risk as well because Leptospirosis is a zoonotic disease which means it can spread from animals to people.

The signs of Leptospirosis infection in dogs may vary. Some dogs do not show any signs of illness but may continue to shed the bacteria in their urine. Some develop a transient illness but recover, while many others become very sick and can even die. The signs can be nonspecific such as: lethargy, loss of appetite, fever, increased thirst and urination, vomiting, diarrhea and yellowing or bruising of the skin. There are different strains of the Leptospira bacteria and different strains target different organs. Kidney and liver failure may occur. The treatment will vary depending on the extent of the illness. Some dogs are treated with oral antibiotics alone, while others need to be hospitalized for intensive care.

If your veterinarian suspects Leptospirosis, diagnostics must be run to confirm infection. New tests, such as the Leptospirosis PCR for blood or urine, allow us to detect active infections in a shorter period of time (a few days). Chronic infections may require a blood antibody titer to be run initially and again 4 to 6 weeks later. Other tests may be recommended depending on severity of the disease and the condition of the patient.

The good news is that there is a vaccination that can help prevent Leptospirosis. We recommend it for all dogs living in New Jersey. Discuss your dog’s risk of exposure and the vaccination with your veterinarian. All of my dogs are vaccinated for Leptospirosis every year. Even though they are not outside often, I want them to be protected. Remember “Lepto” and remember there is a way to prevent this deadly disease.

 

 

 Laurie Pearlman DVM

The Obese Pet. (Dr. Billy Danowitz)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Has one of the veterinarians at OCVH, FVH or NPVH said that your beloved pet is overweight?

Did you know that 55% of dogs and 54% of cats in theUnited Statesare considered overweight or obese?  That is a tremendous number!  So while your veterinarian may make a passing comment about “Rex

eating a few less treats” or “we need to get Fluffy a treadmill”, there are real medical reasons why we are concerned for your furry family member!

 

PRIMARY RISKS OF EXCESS WEIGHT IN PETS:

  1. Osteoarthritis
  2. Diabetes Mellitus
  3. High Blood Pressure
  4. Heart and Respiratory Disease
  5. Cranial Cruciate Ligament Injury
  6. Kidney Disease
  7. Decrease life expectancy (up to 2.5 years)

These are very real medical problems that could potentially shorten an overweight pet’s lifespan up to 912 days.  That is a lot of quality time missed!  No one wants to hear that their pet is overweight, but we as veterinarians are responsible for making the patient our number one priority.  With the exception of a few medical problems that can slow metabolism and some medications that enhance appetite, the most common cause of pet obesity is the owner themselves.  Food is love, right??  NO!  Let’s find another way to show it!

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR PET IS OVERWEIGHT

The first step towards helping your furry friend battle a weight problem is to admit that there is a problem to begin with.  Schedule an examination with your veterinarian, and ask them candidly about what “Cuddles’ ideal weight should be”.  During the history part of the examination we will ask about any medications that the pet may be taking.  Corticosteroid medications (such as prednisone, Vetalog, and Temaril-P) notoriously increase appetite and can have an influence on weight gain.  If there has been unexpected weight gain, your veterinarian will likely recommend some baseline blood tests, to make sure that there is no medical cause for weight gain, such as hypothyroidism.

If blood work does not reveal any causes for weight gain, then it is time to examine the diet. To put it simply, an obese animal is taking markedly more calories than they are burning off, leading to the weight gain.  There are two factors that we as the human owners have direct control over:

1)      How many calories they eat

2)      Exercise

DIET (And I mean everything, not just the dog food)

When I ask an owner what their pet is eating, I often hear “Science Diet Healthy Weight”, or something of the like.  I usually follow that up with “…is that all?” More often than not is followed up with a list of “small amounts of daily treats and food off of the table.” I would say that the great majority of overweight dogs we treat at our hospitals are fed table food supplementing their dog food.  Pet owners do not realize that these small amounts of treats and table food are adding a surprising number of calories!  Another problem with diet is portion size.  The average pet owner puts food in the bowl without measuring exactly how much is going in.  When I ask how much of a particular food someone is feeding, I often hear “2 cups” or something similar.  Often this is not a measuring cup that is being used, but some other sized-cup that can frequently be at least 2-3 cups on its own.  Our hospitals are equipped with FREE pet food measuring cups to assist you in providing the correct amount of food to your dog or cat, pick one up next time you come to visit!

Cats often have a different type of problem leading to obesity.  Unlike dogs, who can typically be trained to become “meal feeders” (eating their meal in one sitting), cats are often “free feeders” or “grazers” that pick and choose as they please.  In multiple cat households it often becomes virtually impossible to provide a certain amount of calories to any one particular cat, since the community food bowl is never empty.  This is a challenge as veterinarians that we encounter often.

The bottom line with pet food, treats and table food is that often changes need to be made.  The hardest change is often changing the perception as an owner that you are “depriving” your beloved friend from a well-deserved treat.  As a caretaker you must take the approach of “I want to have you around and healthy as long as I can, so your doctor thinks we need to make some changes”.  Speak to your veterinarian about some healthy treat ideas, such as baby carrots or frozen green beans, or some management changes that may prevent Bella from begging at the table while your family is eating.

 

 

TREATMENT AIDS FOR OBESITY:

  1. Stop table food and excessive treats.  Make sure you are not over-feeding your pet.
  2. Therapeutic Diets.  There are several prescription diets that are designed for weight loss. Unlike commercial “light” or “healthy weight” formulas, the      prescription foods have an even greater calorie restriction, or in the case of onefood can up-regulate the gene for metabolism, which in turn “burns more calories”.  Hills      Prescription Diet R/D and W/D are both calorie-restricted and can be used to promote weight loss while inducing satiety.  Hills Prescription Metabolic Diet is a relatively new food that up-regulates the gene for metabolism. Higher metabolism means weight is accomplished by burning more calories.  Please contact your veterinarian for more information about these diets and which one would be best for your pet.
  1. Slentrol. Prescription medication that makes a dog to be “less hungry,” allowing the owners to feed less calories without the pet seeming hungry all the time.
  2. More exercise!  You can look into dog parks, of course, but even more frequent or longer walks could make a big difference.  Not only are you improving the medical state of your beloved companion, but you can also increase your bond with them. Of course, you will get the added health affect of exercise too!  Don’t forget about swimming for dogs, as well. With cats, try using a laser-pointer to get them to chase around the house.

 

 

 

 

 

William Danowitz DVM

Road trip! Traveling safely with your pet. ( Dr. Zach Weiner)

The weather is getting hotter and hotter by the day, folks.  Summer is the time for barbeques, beach days and for some of us lucky ones, a vacation trip.  What about Fido or Fluffy though?  Do you have plans for your pets while you travel?  Of course, we would love to see them at our lovely boarding facility where they will be kept safe and happy while you enjoy your vacation.  Our friendly animal care staff will see to your little buddy’s every desire during his or her stay and can even notify a compassionate veterinarian if a medical need arises.  That way you can enjoy yourself with the peace of mind that your companion is safe and sound at Ocean County Veterinary Hospital.

That being said, some owners are able to take their pets when traveling.  If your buddy is a good copilot, a vacation can be a great bonding experience.  Just like everything in life though, there are measures that should be taken to make the adventure as safe as possible.

Anything can happen on a trip.  Your dog could decide that he really needs to explore something really curious at a rest stop, your cat may find a way to break out of her carrier at just the wrong moment in a parking lot, or a loud trucker’s horn can scare your ferret out of your daughter’s hands during a picnic lunch.  These are just a few examples of how your pet can be lost far away from home.  Like it or not accidents happen, and the easiest way to ruin a vacation is to lose your pet in a strange place.  New sounds, smells, people, and events can all cause even the most stalwart companion to act uncharacteristically.  As good custodians of their welfare, we need to protect them from themselves as much as anything else.

Pets should be properly restrained during car travel in an approved carrier or seatbelt. It is a state law in New Jersey that all pets must be properly secured during travel, not just for their safety but for yours as well.  So be sure when you buckle up that they do too.  In addition, be sure that your pets have at least two forms of identification.  No, good readers, I am not joking and I do not expect that you will be taking them to any adult drinking establishments.  However, if they get lost you will be happy your pet has a microchip and identification tag so that he or she will not need to make an Incredible Journey to get back to you. Having your pet micro chipped by one of our doctors is the easy, affordable and permanent way to identify it as belonging to you. It is also a good idea to have a few pictures, possibly on your smart phone, of your buddy with you just in case.   You will be glad you have all of these tools if your pet gets lost or just to brag about how awesome your little one is to others.

 

Before you hit the open road or airways please make sure that your pet is up to date on all vaccinations, you have proper travel documentation and that you have copies of all of his or her medical records.  No one expects a midnight visit to the emergency room on vacation, but if it should be necessary, the vet will have a lot easier time if they have your records handy.  In addition, some states or countries require health certificates and proof of vaccinations for travel.

International and flight travel require very specific documentation with stringent requirements and time frames.  Some airlines require health certificates to be issued within a week of the trip and have specific vaccine requirements.  International travel is even more stringent and the approval process can sometimes take up to six months depending on which country you wish to travel too.  All in all it can be a lot to remember, but is very important to assure that your vacation goes smoothly.  You do not want to be shocked and disappointed when your pet is denied access to your flight. Luckily, we are here to help and assist you in navigating travel regulations.  Please do not hesitate to contact our office if you need records, a health certificate, or must booster any vaccines before traveling.  As with everything, you do not want to wait until the last minute. Plan ahead to assure that you have everything you need to legally and safely travel with your little one.

 

I always recommend bringing your own supply of food for your pet.  This is important for two reasons: 1) it gives them a source of comfort and a feeling of home and 2) they are less likely to get an upset stomach if you cannot find their regular food and need to switch brands.  Don’t forget any medications that he or she is regularly taking, including heartworm and flea/tick preventatives! A familiar toy or treats are also recommended.  My dogs used to love to travel within their beds.  They curled up and were happy as could be during even the most epic drives.  However, if your little one is nervous or nauseous, we can help with that.  While we do not routinely prescribe sedatives for travel, in certain cases they are indicated.  If you think your little one will need one, please call well in advance of your trip, so that an appropriate medication plan can be discussed with your doctor.  We also have a safe and effective once a day car sickness medication called Cerenia, which can be very helpful if your buddy is queasy during long or short car rides.

 

Lastly friends, be sure that you are mindful of your furry friend’s needs during your adventure.  Especially with good travel companions, it can be easy to forget that they need time to stretch their legs, go to the bathroom, and get some food and drink in the middle of long car trips just like the rest of us.  Many travel stops have designated pet walking areas to safely do this.  Even if they do not, I have found as long as you clean up after your little one there is most always a small patch of green for a little break at most rest stops.  Never leave your little one in a hot car while you stop to eat lunch.  Studies show that cracking the windows is useless on hot or sunny days and opening the windows too far is asking for trouble as we previously discussed.  Even a few minutes can be gravely dangerous, especially during these hot summer months.  It’s best to skip the long lunch or shopping detour until your pet is safely set up at your destination.

 

Alright, that’s it for now folks.  Have safe and fun travels this summer!

 

 

 

Zachary Weiner DVM

BEAT THE HEAT: How to keep your pet safe this summer ( Dr. Lorri Mitchell)

Help Your Pet Avoid Heatstroke!

Ahh, summertime. We have already weathered one heat wave and we can be sure there are more to come. This time of the year there are always warnings about heat stroke, and keeping pets inside on those hot days. We have all heard the precautions about leaving pets in cars but what is the real risk?

Heat Stroke occurs when a warm blooded animal is no longer able to self-regulate their body temperature due to environmental conditions. For our furry pets that are not able to sweat, this means the outside world is too hot for them to cool themselves down by panting. It cause hyperthermia (their body temperature gets too hot like a super fever!). What quickly follows is internal organ damage and that can lead to death or long term health problems if not immediately and aggressively treated.

At our hospitals we usually see several cases of heat stroke per season that range from a pet being forgotten in the car to a pet exercising in the heat when they were not used to it. Sometimes, just lying outside in the heat and humidity can lead to heat stroke.

Risk Factors for Heat Stroke

Pet Risk Factors:

–  The very old and the very young (just like us!)

–  Overweight pets

–  Sudden exercise of pets not conditioned for physical activity (even at moderate   temperatures)

–  Underlying medical issues such as heart or respiratory disease

–  Short nosed breeds (pugs, bulldogs, pekes or mixes of these) whose respiratory systems are less able to cope with extreme temperatures

Environmental Risk Factors:

–  High temperatures especially when coupled with high humidity

–   Lack of shade, water or ventilation

And of course, the CAR!

Leaving your pet in the car in the warm months is never a good idea. Even at moderate outside temperatures the inside of a car is much hotter. We posted this chart on Facebook recently but here is another look.

How do I recognize that my pet is overheated?

Signs that you need to take action, including calling us right away are:

–  Excessive panting even at rest

–  Dark or bright red tongue and gum color instead of salmon pink

–  Sticky or dry gums

–  Extreme lethargy, staggering or appearing unaware of surroundings

–  Bloody diarrhea or vomit

–  Seizures

What do I do?

–  Call us right away to let us know you are coming with an emergency

–  If you are delayed in transport move the pet to a cooler environment or at least shade. Use COOL water (NOT ICE WATER) to cool your pet. Using towels or cloths soaked in COOL water are best. Wrap around feet and head.

–  Offer ice cubes or small amounts of water but do not force drinking

 It is important to remember that even if your pet seems to recover from an over-heating episode you cannot assume that all is well. Their organ systems may have been affected and will need blood tests to evaluate their health. They may require a hospital stay for intravenous fluids and other medical support. With immediate treatment, heat stroke patients can be saved and live normally. Unfortunately, some do experience terminal changes to their brain or other organs causing them to lapse into coma and death despite the best efforts. The outcome is affected by factors such as how high and how long the pet’s internal temperature was elevated and how quickly aggressive medical treatment is started.

So how do we enjoy summer with our pets then?

–  Avoid activity at the hottest part of the day

–  On hot/humid days play indoors

–  If pets will be outside ensure they have shade and lots of water

–  Leave your pet at home when you go shopping or try to shop at pet friendly stores. If your pet must run errands with you, do not leave them in the car alone for more than a minute. Use solar shield blankets and shades for windows or kennels with portable fans and keep the air conditioning running. If you don’t have AC in the car, park in the shade, open all (not just one) windows at a safe level to allow a cross breeze. When you arrive home bring the pet in first before unloading the car.

–  For the techie, there are thermometers you can mount in the car with a radio transmitter to your central locking/alarm key fob and will trigger an alarm when temperatures rise in the car. But, you must be close by to rescue the pet before the temperature becomes excessive.

–  Some pets love to swim and even kiddie pools will help keep them wet and cool.

–  Dog friendly beaches can be a fun way to stay cool and there are some in NJ. Check out www.bringfido.com to find some!

Have a great summer and stay cool!

Care of Orphaned or Injured Wildlife (Dr. Kara Ruthberg)

Spring is a common time for people to encounter an injured or orphaned wild animal. The first question most would-be rescuers ask is, “What should I do?” Understanding the basics can provide vital guidance when there’s wildlife in need.

Most importantly – if you see what you think may be sick, injured or orphaned wildlife, don’t immediately remove it from its natural habitat. The bird or animal may not need assistance and you could actually do more harm in your attempt to help. Some species leave their offspring alone temporarily, especially during the day. For example, deer and cottontail rabbits spend much of the day away from their well-camouflaged offspring to minimize the chance of predators finding them.

To determine if young wildlife is truly orphaned, check the animal periodically for 24 to 48 hours to see if it is still around. Are parents nearby?  Do you see other babies? Do you see a nesting site? Can they be returned to the nest? Keep your distance. Keep cats and dogs away from the area inhabited by the young animal; the adult may not return if it is noisy or if predators or people are close by.

If you find an abandoned or injured animal the best thing you can do is to call your local Animal Control Officer. They are familiar with handling and equipped to care for these animals. The Officers are knowledgeable about the location and hours of operation of wildlife rehabilitators. Do not handle the animal unless advised to do so. REMEMBER these are wild animals and they can bite or injure you. Some animals in this area (who may appear healthy) are carrying Rabies, a fatal disease that can be passed to humans or pets with a tiny bite or scratch. If you cannot safely capture the animal, keep a close eye on it and its location. If you must handle the animal, take care to minimize the risk of injury to yourself and to the animal. Wear protective clothing and equipment, such as very thick leather gloves, to avoid bites or scratches; wash your hands well after handling the animal. If you or one of your pets does get injured by the animal you must call the Health Department of Animal Control Officer immediately to report the injury and have the animal tested for Rabies.

If you decide to help a wild orphan or injured animal, contacting a wildlife rehabilitation facility is the first priority, as many of these are in need of veterinary attention and specialized care if they are to survive. If no rehabilitators are available in your area, contact a veterinarian to seek assistance for the animal.

Safely capture the animal with a towel or blanket. Then place the animal in a cardboard box with small holes poked in it for air or a pet carrier. Place paper towels or newspapers in the bottom. With baby mammals, you can put a piece of fleece material but do not use terry cloth, wash clothes, or towels; as the loops can come loose and strangle the animal. NEVER GIVE FOOD OR WATER! Improperly feeding a baby animal may cause them to inhale water or food which can be deadly. Also, do not try to bandage any injuries!

Place the animal in a quiet environment. It will need a mild heat source. You can make a “sock buddy” by taking an old gym sock, putting rice in it, and microwaving the sock for 30 second intervals until warm. Place the sock buddy next to the baby. Take the animal to a wildlife rehabilitator or a veterinarian within 24 hours of capture.

If you’re the type of person who would be compelled to help injured or orphaned wildlife, investigate your local resources before an emergency arises. Find out who can help you to perform a rescue out in the field and find out where you can take the animal for veterinary care and rehabilitation and keep those agencies’ contact information handy – you never know when you’re going to come across an animal in need!

 

Kara Ruthberg DVM

Lily Toxicity in Cats (Dr. Jenna Koenigstein)

 

Lilies can be fatal in your cat

Beautiful flower, right?  But did you know this pretty and seemingly harmless plant could actually kill your feline companions with a single nibble?  It’s true!  Certain types of lilies are among the most dangerous types of flowers for felines, and far too people are aware of this until it may be too late.  With Spring slowly starting to make its reappearance and stores full of flowers waiting to make their way into your home, we need to take a moment to discuss this potentially deadly toxicity.

The types of lilies that you need to worry about include:

  • Easter
  • Tiger
  • Stargazer
  • Japanese Show
  • Rubrum
  • Any other members of the genus Lilum (“true lilies”)

The toxic compound in lilies is extremely destructive to a cat’s kidneys.  It only takes a nibble on a single leaf or stem, drinking the vase water, or ingesting a small amount of pollen from these flowers (as with grooming) to send your cat into acute (sudden and often irreversible) kidney failure and have you rushing them to the nearest emergency room.

The prognosis for acute kidney failure from lily ingestion may be good as long as it is caught early so that aggressive treatment can be started.  However, if too much time elapses between ingestion and the start of treatment, the prognosis becomes significantly worse and death from disease or euthanasia is much more likely.  Without treatment, acute kidney failure is fatal.

Treatment for lily-induced acute kidney failure involves aggressive IV fluid diuresis, injectable medications, nutritional support, and very close monitoring.  If these fail, advanced procedures could be attempted, such as different types of dialysis, however these are quite expensive and are not readily available even at most specialty veterinary hospitals.

Hopefully it is clear based on all of this information that the best thing you can do is to PREVENT their exposure to lilies.  Here are some suggestions for doing this.

  • If you have cats in your household, do not have lilies!  There is no such thing as “out of reach” for most cats, and even a fallen dead leaf or airborne pollen could be enough to cause toxicity.
  • Keep your cats indoors as many people have lilies in their garden.
  • If you are buying or sending a bouquet to friends or family members with cats, ensure there are no lilies present.
  • Share the knowledge of lily toxicity with family, friends, and florists to try to prevent feline exposure.  From personal experience, it crucial to share knowledge of toxins with those who may inadvertently bring these plants into the house without realizing the danger.  I suggest making a list of toxins for whatever types of animals you have in your home and placing it somewhere important such as on the refrigerator so everyone is aware.  You can ask your veterinarian to help with the making of such a list.

 

Hopefully this entry has helped provide some information to you regarding a dangerous toxicity we see far too often.  Happy Spring!

 

Dr. Jenna Koenigstein

 

 

 

 

Is it too late for New Year’s Resolutions? (Dr. Lorri Mitchell)

We are well into 2013 now and one may wonder, how well are the New Year’s Resolutions coming along? Some of us may be doing well while others may have let them slide. So, instead of fretting about our own personal resolutions, how about making a few to benefit your pet?

 

 

Recently I have been reading some articles about resolutions for our pets and I wonder if any of our readers have made resolutions aimed at making our companions happier and healthier?

I would like to take a moment to share a few resolutions that maybe you can work into your family.

1. Protection. We all protect our pets. Keep them in fenced yards, on leashes or prevent them from escaping outside but is there anything else we can do? Keeping identifying tags on them is another step. Make sure they have current contact information on them too. For those pets (or owners) who don’t like dangling tags there are always the embroidered collars where your info is directly sewn onto it. Microchipping is another way to get extra protection in case your pet goes missing. If your pet is picked up by animal control, brought to a veterinary hospital or a shelter they will be scanned and if chipped they will contact the owner. Already have a chip? Make sure your current contact info is registered with the manufacturer. It is so disappointing to us when we are lucky enough to find a chip in a lost animal only to call the company and find out it has never been linked to an owner. (The Res-Q chips we use have a back-up registry to our hospital.) Since their invention, microchip companies have reunited more than 100,000,000 pets and owners! Keep current copies of vaccine records, documents of any chronic diseases your pet has and medications they are taking in case of emergency.

 

2. Prevention. Resolve to keep up on preventative care. Yearly physicals (twice yearly for those with chronic conditions or senior pets). Start brushing teeth! We can help you develop a home care program for your pet. Do some early detection blood work. Keep up with monthly Heartworm prevention and flea and tick control. The maker of Heartgard has created a free app to help you remember when it is time to give the monthly tablet. Go to www.heartgard.com to download. Use the reminder to do your flea and tick medicine the same day!

 

3. Diet and exercise. The category we all hate! Vow to feed well and use portion control. We can get your pet set up with a weight reduction plan if you need one. Hills has just introduced a new prescription diet, “Metabolic Advanced Weight Solution,” for obese dogs and cats that promises easier weight loss with lasting results. Do homework on the foods you feed including treats as there have been too many recalls in the last few years. Resolve to do more walks or play more laser light chasing or whatever gets your pal going.

 

4. Spend more time with our pets. If given the chance, this is the one I think our pets would choose.  Pledge 10 minutes a day to: brush them if they enjoy it, belly rubs, road trips and lots of cuddles in the lap – it’s been shown to reduce people’s heart rate and blood pressure so we can benefit too. Win Win!

 

5. Get a New Look!
In 2013, give your pet the gift of glam! A regular grooming regimen will make your pet feel proud, pampered and healthy.

 

Now that we know what we need to do in 2013 for our pets, let’s see what it would look like if our pets wrote their own New Years Resolutions…

 

It might look like…..

–          Don’t get in the trash

–          Drink from my bowl not the toilet

–          Play more ball, chase more mice/squirrels

–          I will go willingly to the vet as they tell me it is in my own best interest

–          Let them brush my teeth                                                 

–          Perfect  my begging eyes

–          Improve my manners

–          I will come when I am called

–          Try to stay off the furniture

 

 

 

 

Celebrity Pets

Some celebrity pet owners were asked what their resolutions were for their pets. Actress Hilary Swank responded that her two dogs are so great that she vows to take them everywhere she goes including interviews. Bob Barker wishes his rabbit would use his litter box every time not just when it’s convenient! Glee actress Lea Michele says her cat Sheila needs to resolve to stop going into the bathroom and taking all the cotton balls out of the jar and scattering them all over.

I hope this New Year finds all of you and your pets well and happy. Again, if you wish to speak with our staff about teeth brushing, wellness programs, weight loss or micro chipping contact us anytime. Happy Belated New Year!

Part II. Pet Dental Awareness (Dr. Kara Ruthberg)


What happens during a “veterinary dental”?

No other procedure performed on small animals does more to help patients than professional dental cleaning and after care. Preventative dental care or “dental prophylaxis” is performed not only to clean the teeth, but also to evaluate the mouth for any other problems that might be present. One important concept to understand is the difference between a preventative (or “prophylactic”) dental versus a dental procedure involving extractions.  Periodontal disease is a hidden disease and unless you go looking for it you will not find it until it is advanced. Our procedures are far more than “scraping tartar off teeth.”So what exactly happens when your pet comes to us for dental care?

 1)    General anesthesia

 Before the dental procedure can begin, the patient must be placed under general anesthetic. This will greatly increase patient comfort and effectiveness of cleaning. In addition, it allows us to place an endotracheal tube in the patient’s wind-pipe. This will protect the lungs from the bacteria that are being removed from the teeth. Sedation and anesthesia are essential for an adequate evaluation and a thorough cleaning. We examine individual teeth for mobility, fractures, and also the area under the gum line, which is the most important part. For this reason, “non-anesthetic” cleaning is not a worthwhile option. Modern veterinary medicine takes into account the health status of your pet and we require a Complete Blood Count (CBC) and a chemistry panel that includes liver and kidney values prior to any anesthetic. We use a variety of safe anesthetics in addition to modern equipment and trained technicians who monitor your pet throughout their dental procedure.

2)    Dental X-rays

We take X-rays of the entire mouth using the most modern digital radiographic systems. Did you know that up to 70% of the tooth can lie below the gum line unseen? Dental X-rays show us the inside of the tooth and its root under the gums. Many decisions are based on X-ray findings. Sometimes a tooth may look normal but on X-ray we may see irreparable damage to the root that necessitates removal of the tooth and oral surgery. Trying to practice dentistry without using dental radiographs is like trying to treat ear disease without an otoscope, or diabetes without blood sugar measurements.

 

 

3)    Therapy to treat any disease found by exam and x-rays

Sometimes it is necessary to extract teeth that are too damaged by disease. These teeth are nonfunctional and can harbor bacteria that may be harmful to your pet’s liver, kidneys, or heart. Removing the diseased tooth eliminates the source of pain and dental surgery is an important and beneficial dental procedure when performed correctly. A dental radiograph is taken to confirm that the entire tooth has been extracted and the remaining alveolus (socket) is free of bone, root remnants or debris.

4)    Supragingival (above the gum line) plaque and tartar removal

This is when we clean the portion of the tooth that you can see using an ultrasonic scaler. It is the most visible part of the procedure and gives that “white” appearance to the teeth once the tartar build up is removed. It is important to know that this step is the ONLY step that can be performed (although very poorly) during a “non-anesthetic dental”. The teeth may look cleaner, but the most important parts of the procedure have yet to be done.

5)    Subgingival (below the gum line) cleaning

This is cleaning the area under the gum line. In our animal patients, this is one of the most important steps because subgingival plaque and calculus is what causes periodontal disease which in turn leads to pain, tooth loss and loss of bone that holds the teeth. This is the most common ailment diagnosed in ALL our animal patients.

 

6) Polishing

Polishing smoothes out the defects and removes plaque (bacteria) that could not be removed during the previous steps. Pumice or polishing paste is used on a polishing cup for the procedure. Polishing makes it more difficult for plaque to stick to the teeth so it can delay the onset of future dental problems.

7) Irrigation

Water spray plus an added antimicrobial rinse are used to gently flush and remove debris and diseased tissue from the gingival pocket or sulcus.

8) Fluoride application

Fluoride application serves the strengthen the enamel and helps decrease sensitivity of the teeth

9) Dental Charting

All of the relevant oral findings are recorded on your pet’s record including missing, loose, or fractured teeth as well as any treatment rendered. This will allow the veterinarian to more accurately follow your pet’s progress through the years.

10) Home care

Home care is the single most important procedure the owner can do to maintain oral health.

The pet owner is an integral part of our dental team. The dental visit is not complete until discussion is held on maintaining and improving oral health.  This will include a talk on how to brush your pet’s teeth and diets that can actually remove or reduce the buildup of plaque! Once we get your pet’s mouth clean and problem areas addressed, daily brushing should help reduce development of periodontal disease. If you can maintain home care, future procedures should be quicker, require less anesthesia and surgery, and be less expensive.

Dr. Kara Ruthberg